A lot has been made about whether or not this place is “good” or “bad”, “worth the price” or not.  But these are all silly arguments, because in the end- it all depends on the diner.  Can you get a cheaper meal in Chinatown?  Of course you can.  You can get a cheaper chinese meal on almost every street corner in New York City… and some of them might have General Tso’s Chicken that tastes better then the one at Chinatown Brasserie- but that doesn’t mean it deserves to dismissed outright.  If you want to have a fancy meal out, at a destination restaurant- and you want the food to be straight up Chinese, well then, Chinatown Brasserie would be the perfect place for you.  If you are a Dim Sum nut looking for an authentic (and cheap) Chinese food experience, then steer clear of this place.

I’m a huge fan of Chinese food.  I love Dim Sum, and have eaten at Dim Sum in many Chinatowns (including NYC, San Francisco, Boston & Los Angeles).  When I lived in Boston we practically lived at a place called China Pearl every Saturday for a year.  My girlfriend indulged me (and it’s one of the reasons we’re married today!).  I also love cheap Chinese food.  The take out kind, and the kind you find at crappy buffets.  I like it all.  In my mind, Chinese food is already perfect… not a lot of room for improvement- so with that in mind, I went into my meal at Chinatown Brasserie, expecting exactly what I got.  Decent Chinese food, in an upscale setting that would appeal to any eater… something I can’t say about any of the places I’ve been in Chinatown.  And for that… you pay a price.

Shrimp & Snow Pea Leaf Dumplings ($9)

How could you not want to eat a dumpling that has eyes?  All the Dim Sum we ordered was very tasty.  My personal favorite were the Shrimp and Chinese Chive Dumplings… but that’s because I’m partial to chive dumplings.

Shrimp & Chinese Chive Dumplings ($8)

Roast Pork Bun ($8)

It says Roast Pork Bun on the menu, but I think that’s a typo… you get three.  And they were very good.  One of the people I was with had never had a steamed pork bun, and he enjoyed it.

Shanghai Style Soup Dumplings ($10)

If you never had a soup dumplings, they’re exactly what they sound like.  Dumplings that are filled with soup.  They should be eaten with a big spoon, so that when you take a bite, the soup fills the spoon rather then your lap.  They may not be the cheapest or best soup dumplings in Manhattan- but they’re very good, and none of the people I was with had ever had soup dumplings before, and they were pretty much everyone’s favorites.

Chicken & Garlic Rolls ($8)

It is very difficult to improve immensely on the concept of a spring roll.  Most things you fry taste good.  These were fine… nothing extraordinary.

Entree food porn and the +/- after the jump…

General Tso’s Chicken ($17)

I’m a huge fan of General Tso’s chicken.  It’s a weakness I developed when I was in college.  This General Tso’s is not significantly better then some cheaper places in New York City- but at least you know it’s made with real chicken.  Very good, with some decent heat (but not too hot- unless you accidentally eat one of the chilies)

Crispy Skin Chicken ($19)

The only dud of the night.  It was basically just chicken that had fried crispy skin.  No flavor whatsoever, and the four dipping sauces added nothing.  Skip this one…

Roast Pork Fried Rice ($9)

Also nothing spectacular… but it was good enough.  And you know the ingredients are quality.

Peking Duck ($48)

Best dish of the night.  Comes with pancakes, hoisin, shredded scallions and cucumbers.  Perfectly cooked, and plenty of delicious crispy skin.  Really delicious.  I’ve heard some complaints about this dish, but I think they’ve worked it out.

Chocolate Fortune Cookies

Always better then regular fortune cookies… these have weird “fortunes”.  My fortune was an Annie Lebowitz quote: “Ask your child what he wants for dinner only if he’s buying”.  Appropriate not only because I was there with my dad, but because like most expensive restaurants, Chinatown Brasserie was definitely more enjoyable with someone else paying!

THE + (what people who like this place will say)

• You can really taste the quality ingredients, making it worth the extra money
• Perfect if you want Chinese food, but are eating with people who don’t like going to more “authentic” Chinese places
• You want a hip, chic atmosphere- but still want to eat standard Chinese food (not fusion)
• Really good drinks (try the Frozen Mai Tai)
• Fun place to go with a group so you can order everything and share

THE – (what people who don’t like this place will say)

• I can get better Dim Sum at my favorite Chinatown place for 1/5 the cost.
• I can get better General Tso’s and pork fried rice at the take out place around the corner, for 1/2 the cost
• If you go with a party of 2, you won’t be able to order as many things (the more you order and share, the better the meal will be)

Chinatown Brasserie, 380 Lafayette St., 212-533-7000

A little while back Jim Lahey sold his interest in the Sullivan St. Bakery in Soho to focus his attention on the branch in Hell’s Kitchen (47th between 10th and 11th).  It’s where everything is made (and transported around the city)- PLUS there’s a small counter where those of us unlucky enough to live West of 10th Avenue, can pick up their delicious pizza, bread and now sandwiches to-go.  The sandwiches were introduced a few months ago replacing a lot of the baked sweets.

Well it looks like the real change is coming now… Walking by the Sullivan St. Bakery today, I saw a public notice in the window… an application for a liquor license.  Apparently they are going to be breaking down a wall and turning the whole front of the operation into a place for more then just take-out bread and pizza.  Right now the right side and left side are seperated by a wall, with the left side used to store the bread before it’s loaded onto the delivery trucks to make it’s way around the city.

Who knows how long it will take… but it will certainly be a welcome addition to the neighborhood.  I’m sure the amazing pizzas they have will be delicious with a nice microbrew, or glass of wine.  After yesterday’s NY Post Hooker article, it seems like there’s some folks in the neighborhood who could use a little drink!

A funny side note… there was a cooking camp for kids getting a tour of the bakery while I was there, and I got to snap this photo.  Looks like Mario Batali fans might skew a little younger then we thought!

Sullivan Street Bakery, 533 W. 47th St. (btw. 10th & 11th), 212-265-5580

Before heading to Trader Joe’s I stopped in to Vanessa’s Dumplings for a little lunch the other day…  Only a block away, it’s a great, cheap stop in the East Village if you’re looking for some dumplings.  YOu can get a four or five pieces order of dumplings for $1.99, or and 8 pieces order for $3.49 to $4.49 depending on the type of dumpling. 

I went for the four piece Chive and Pork Dumplings (show below).  They might not have been the best dumpling I’ve ever had… but for the price they are a great option if you’re in that neighborhood.

I also decided to try the Sesame Pancake Sandwich with roast pork… a sandwich made from chopped roast pork, lettuce, carrots and cilantro all stuffed between two pieces of this fluffy scallion bread/pancake kind of thing.  It was very tasty… but also pretty greasy.  Definetely a bargain at $2.99.

They also have frozen dumplings in packs of 30… a great option if you are every throwing a party.  $7.00 to $11.00 depending on the dumpling.

THE + (what people who like this place would say)

• Super good dumplings in the East Village
• Quick and easy and really cheap
• Great lunch option if you work in the area

THE – (what people who don’t like this place would say)

• There are much better and cheaper dumplings to be had in NYC (most them in Chinatown)
• Too Greasy
• Decor is really dingy

Vanessa’s Dumplings, 220 E. 14th St. btw. 2nd & 3rd Ave., 212-529-1329

I’m not a huge brunch person. But half way through the Coddled Eggs dish at Telepan on Sunday night- I thought… if brunch eggs were like this- I could be converted. Had a really delicious dinner at Telepan the other night, Bill (JUdson Grille) Telepan’s greenmarket restaurant on the Upper West Side. And you might say the secret ingredient was eggs. 2 of the five dishes we ordered had some type of egg topping it. If you like eggs for dinner, or on your salad, this is the place to go. Not just good for eggs, it’s also got one of the best prix fix menu deals for a restaurant of this calibur in the city. For $55 you can choose one item off each of the four sections of the menu (Appetizers, Mid Courses, Entrees, and Dessert). For $65 you can add a cheese course to that. I remember reading when they first opened, you could just choose four items off any section… I’m sure leading to the four entree fat man meal. They’ve since changed the menu to address that problem, but allow you to supplement a different course for an extra charge.

I have to say, usually when I look at a menu, a few things jump out at me, and ordering is not too difficult (especially since my wife and I share everything). But this was the closest we came to a fight… There was not a single thing on the menu that didn’t look good- and it was difficult to decide what to get, and how much of it. In the end we choose 5 dishes (3 as a part of the prix fix, and an extra mid course and extra entree). A lot of food, but I can’t think of one dish I would have been willing to give up.

The meal began with an amuse bouche of three items. A pastry puff filled with cheese (how could that be bad???), a crostini topped with mushrooms and beans (also good), and a chilled carrot soup topped with olive oil, which was really delicious- and reminded you that the meal you were about to eat is one made with really fresh ingredients. The menu at Telepan changes based on the seasons and what the best available ingredients are- so don’t expect the menu to be exactly the same when you go.

What we ate, and the porn- after the jump….

TERRINE OF NEW YORK STATE FOIE GRAS

I don’t normally order foie (I know it has it’s huge followers) but something drew me to this dish… probably the combo of rhubarb and duck prosciutto. It was served with duck proscuitto, and rhubarb salad, beet marmalade and walnuts. All the elements were really delcious seperately, and really good eaten together.

CODDLED EGGS

The dish that drew us to the restaurant in the first place. I’ve never had coddled eggs before, but if you like poached eggs, you will love these. Served on top of collard greens and scrapple and covered in a pork broth/sauce. I’ve never had scrapple before but I’ve read about it… and dreamed of the day I could try this Pennsylvania Dutch creation. It’s made taking pork trimmings (or scraps) and cornmeal, making it into a pudding, and frying it. This scrapple was probably made with better ingredients then most, and tasted like a really delcious pork hash. I expected the outside to be a little crispier, but the collards, sauce and broken egg probably made that impossible. Sooooo good (and not light!)

PEA CARBONARA

Another egg dish (the picture was taken after the poached egg was broken over the top and mixed into the pasta); this one was a pea carbonara, made with house cured pancetta and egg fettucine, topped with a poached egg. As delicious as it sounds… better then the pasta dishes at a lot of good Italian restaurants. 

HALIBUT

The halibut was perfectly cooked, with a nice crust on the outside… delicious and flaky on the inside- but the real star was underneath. Chanterelles, wild spinach and crisped gnocchi, which were exactly what they sound like. Little gnocchi, seared on the outside to give them a little bit of a crisp. Amazing.

HERITAGE PORK

Pork 4 ways, with mashed peas and organic grits. This was a slight disappointment… not because it wasn’t good- but because one of the four ways was not some sort of roasted pulled pork shoulder with crisp skin. It’s our favorite, and we were expecting the dish to have that element. Instead it came with a pork back rib (fall off the bone good- and the best piece), pork sausage, and two slices of pork (maybe one being pork loin and other being from the leg? not exactly sure). The dish was delicious, and my wife described the grits as the best she ever had… so don’t be discouraged- but make sure the cuts of pork are what you are looking for before ordering it.

CRUNCHY PEANUT BUTTER- MILK CHOCOLATE GIANDUJA

So many greenmarket restaurants ruin good chocolate desserts by feeling the need to put some fresh fruit like substance over them or in them… If you like fruit, that’s great- but for chocolate lovers, it always upsets us. Lucky for us, the huckleberry gelee that came with this dessert was on the side, allowing the hazlenut chocolate, peanut butter, and peanut brittle ice cream to be eaten on its own. Although I will admit, afterwords we ate the gelee by itself (it was delicious!). Great dessert.

What a great meal… it’s always a good sign when everything on the menu looks good- but oftentimes, the food doesn’t live up to the menu. Telepan’s food tasted just as good as it looked on the menu… so if the menu looks good to you- then definetely check this place out.

THE + (What people who love this place would say)

• You love greenmarket restaurants where the menu changes based on the best available ingredients
• You love poached or coddled eggs. If you love breaking a good egg over stuff, then you will love the Pea Carbonara and the Coddled Eggs over scrapple (provided you like pork of course). There’s also a roasted asparagus dish with a poached egg as well. In the winter, there was a hen of the woods mushroom dish with a poached egg. We will be returning in December for that one!
• You love the Upper West Side and the type of sophisticated restaurants that are starting to pop up there
• Great price for an expensive restaurant. $55 gets you four courses and an opportunity to try many things from the menu. The portions are slightly larger if you order ala carte, but don’t worry, the prix fix is plenty of food. If you order ala carte, the meal becomes more expensive. Appetizers and salads are $9.50 to $19, Mid Courses are $15.50 to $26, and Entrees are $26.00 to $36.00.

THE -

• Service. Once we ordered, the food came out at a perfect pace, but the restaurant was also empty by the time we left. We could tell it is definetely a relaxed service atmosphere. It took awhile for the waiter to take our order, and on a busier night, I wouldn’t be surprised if the dishes came out slower. Not a negative… as long as you’re prepared for it.
• You hate the Upper West Side. The UWS is not exactly party central, and Telepan is no exception. If you are looking for a scene, or excitement (that comes from something other then great food), or a young energy, then this is not your place. Don’t get me wrong, it can be a destination restaurant, if what you are looking for is great greenmarket food, and aren’t bothered by the “adult” environment.

Telepan, 72 W. 69th St., 212-580-4300

Knife + Fork was supposed to come off the wish list last night, but I was sick so we had to cancel our reservations… sort of.  That is I left a message on their machine, letting them know we weren’t coming- but I’m not totally sure if they got it.  I started calling in the early afternoon- once I knew I wasn’t going to feel well enough to make it, but got the machine every time.  It didn’t seem weird at first, because I had to leave my name and number on the machine to get a reservation in the first place… but by 6:30pm, with nobody answering the phone- I was forced to leave a voicemail to cancel my 7:30 reservation.  I felt really bad… but then again- nobody was answering the phone all day!

Does anybody know what the deal is with this place? 

When Knife + Fork first opened, it flew under the radar, and the reviews seemed really stellar.  It also seemed like the diners were getting a personal one man show from Chef Damien Brassel, in a hidden jem of a restaurant that had managed a truly “soft” opening.

Then came the write ups in the mainstream media, praising the great menu, delicious food, and unbelievably cheap tasting menu ($45 for 6 courses). A two week wait for a reservation was the result- and now, the bad reviews are starting to pop up on places like Menupages & CitySearch.  Complaints about everything from the service, to the cursing chef, the lack of air conditioning, the portion size, and how undercooked many of the dishes on the tasting menu were.

Is it possible with the rise in popularity, this “one man show” is finding it harder and harder to make amazing food when the restaurant is full?  Has anyone been there lately?  I still really want to check it out.  The menu looks great, and I love little places like this- if the food doesn’t suck now that the place is full.  My initial thought is maybe it’s better to go on a weeknight, when it is dead- rather then a busy weekend night?  If you’ve been please comment…

One thing’s for sure… they need to hire somone to answer the phone!

Knife + Fork, 108 E. 4th St. btw. 1st & 2nd Ave., 212-228-4885 (good luck!)

HELPFUL LINKS:

• Review [Daily Candy]
• Menu & Reviews [MenuPages]
• Old Review [Chowhound]
• More Mixed Reviews [CitySearch]

****ADDITION**** Made on 6/26/06

Another negative review posted on Chowhound!

SUNDAY IN THE PARK w/ Thomas K.

Living in a city like this, there isn't a more relaxing thing to do then having a picnic in Central Park (with the Poopster- seen left).  So when the Bouchon Bakery opened in the Time Warner Center I knew my first food purchased there would be taken to go, and eaten just across Columbus Circle in the Southwest corner of Central Park. 

It's actually a no-brainer, if you think about it- if for no other reason then you don't have to stare at the much ridiculed Samsung sign that hangs over the dining area of Thomas Keller's (Per Se, French Laundry) new french style boulangerie.  The food here is not exactly cheap eats… but then again with Per Se costing over $200 per person (and that's just for the food), and just one floor above, you don't mind paying the extra couple bucks per sandwich… especially if it's good (which thankfully it was!)

I've actually been to the Time Warner Center 4 or 5 times since the Bouchon Bakery has opened… staring through the glass cases at the sandwiches, pre made salads and soups, declicious pastries, french style macaroons, and cakes… but never actually ordered anything.  The situation just didn't seem right- until this weekend.  With the sun out, and picnic blanket in hand, we walked over to Columbus Circle from our Hell's Kitchen apartment ready to see if the acclaim Thomas Keller's has gotten for his expensive french food, could be transferred to a $9 sandwich. 

What we got, the pictures and the +/- after the jump…

Vegetable Jardiniere ($9.25)

Wow… was this sandwich good. They had some displayed on top of the sandwich display case- but these are just for display.  Ours was made fresh… we had to wait about five minutes while they made it, but it was worth it.  Roasted Fennel, Red Peppers, Portabella, and Gruyere.  I think they make it with whatever fresh vegetables they have.  It was hot, and the toasted multi-grain bread was smothered with some sort of herb pesto.  Really really good.

Roast Pork Tonnato on Pain Campagne ($9.25)

This sandwich was not nearly as good as the Vegetable Jardiniere, but if you like pork, it was really good. Much better then it looks actually. Really delicious slices of roast pork loin  w/ a tuna aoili, red pickled onions and watercress.  So good… but should definetely be eaten before the Jardiniere if you don't want to be disappointed.

They also have soups, salads and all sort of baked goods.  We had the chocolate chip cookie, and the chocolate macaroon- both which were delicious.

THE +

• With Whole Foods in the basement of the Time Warner Center, you now have two great places to pick up picnic food before heading to Central Park
• Chance to eat Thomas Keller food, without paying Per Se prices

THE -

• It is a little expensive… especially some of the baked goods. Although, the take out prices are cheaper then the sit down restaurant prices.
• It's just a cafe… if you go expecting Per Se, you will be disappointed

Bouchon Bakery, 3rd Floor of the Time Warner Center, Columbus Circle, 212.823.9366

Closed on Sundays… so if you are going to picnic- you have to do it on Saturday.

I read a review of El Centro by Nosher this week that echoed exactly how I felt when I ate there in February.  The expectiations, the disappointment, and most of all, the optimism for the place's potential- if just a few little changes were made.  Here's the gist of what was written:

When Chopper, HungryMan, and I visited recently, we found lots of passably decent dishes–and we ordered quite a bit of food–with nary a standout in the bunch. Nothing we ate was bad, by any means, but none of it made us want to rush back to El Centro.

While I did think the frozen margarita I drank during dinner was great, I hope that El Centro isn’t going to settle for mere adequacy in its food, especially when its problems seem to be simple ones, problems that might be eliminated with a few hours of watchful kitchen supervision on the part of the management. After all, it would be a shame to fill Vynl’s old digs with a restaurant that amounts to little more than a margarita bar that just happens to serve food [NYCNOSH]

When we went, El Centro had only been open for a week- and being a really big Hell's Kitchen (the restaurant) fan, I was pretty excited.  El Centro is the authentic mexican "street food" offshoot to Hell's Kitchen, a more upscale restaurant with Mexican flavors.  I like to think of it as what Fatty Crab is to 5 Ninth.  Same chef, right around the corner, stripped down- more authentic food.  I didn't necessarily think the food was going to be as good as Hell's Kitchen (after all it was billed as straight up Mexican street food), but I felt like it was going to be a great addition to the neighborhood.

In the end, while it was a really fun place to drink and eat with friends- the food that we got did not live up to how good it sounded on the menu.

What we got, and the +/-, after the jump…

There were six of us eating so we ordered some Guacamole & Chips ($7.00). The chips were fresh, and seemed home-made, but chips are usually free at a Mexican Restaurant- so in essence you are paying $7.00 for guacamole (not chips and guacamole), and the portion they give you is unnecessarily skimpy.  There was nothing wrong with the guacamole, but I think they should either a) give you a little bit more, or b) lower the price just a little bit.  Even $5 would have been easier to swallow. Not to mention, if a table of six orders 1 order of guacamole, and you know how small it is, the waiter should have let us know that we might have needed more.

We then got a couple of smaller things to share.

• Goat Cheese Empanada ($4.00)
• Vegetable Quesadilla ($5.00)

Both were delicious, but once again, we didn't order enough for the table of six.  Definetely our fault… But the real problems with the meal were the main courses.

I have never had a Pozole before, and maybe this shouldn't have been my first one, but it sounded delicous, so I went with the Lamb Pozole w/ Mole Negro.  While I really enjoyed the hominy, there was barely any Lamb in it, and even though it was totally covered in a dark sauce it was very under spiced and totally devoid of flavor.  I'm hoping it was because it was their first week- and since then they have improved the dish.  If you had a different experience, please comment- I'm really hoping this dish has gotten better.

Now on to the Chilaquiles, which two of my friends ordered.  Now, none of us have ever had traditional chilaquiles before, but we figured that since Hell's Kitchen was so good, we were in capable hands.  It's described on the menu as Homemade Corn Tortilla Casserole Topped w/ Avocado, Queso Blanco, Crema Fresca & Pico De Gallo.  You can get it with Pork, Vegetables or Chicken for $11.00, Shrimp or Fish for $14.00.  I think casserole was probably not the right word for this dish.  I would have called it Nachos.  They were delicious nachos, but nachos nonetheless.  The dish was basically the same chips, layered in a bowl with the toppings described above.

I personally throught it tasted great, but the dish they served seemed much more like an nacho appetizer then a main course to the people who ordered it.  It was more chips then anything else and after having the chips w/ guacamole and salsa before the meal, it was too much chips for one meal… prompting one friend to repeat "Does anyone want a bowl of chips with their chips?" for the rest of the night.  The burrito another friend ordered seemed really good- but the damage was already done.  This was the place with all the chips.

In the end, I don't cast all the blame on El Centro though.  The dishes we ordered as appetizers were delicious, and one of our friends really enjoyed the Burrito.  Most of the problem came from the two people who ordered dishes where they didn't get what they expected, and when all was said and done, we felt a little cheated.  The description of the Chilaquiles could have been better, and considering the ingredients, the portion size and what it is- it shouldn't cost over $10 and maybe shouldn't be a main course.

El Centro has gotten some disappointed reviews, but it's also gotten some raves- which leads me to believe that it is possible to have a really good meal there, and probably depends (as usual) on your taste, expectations and what you order.  I will definetely go back to give the place another chance.  Hell's Kitchen is too great a restaurant for this place not to be better.  The menu and dish preperations make it seem so much more fun then a typical mexican place.  If I go back with a large group, I'll probably order the Chilaquiles as an appetizer for everyone to share.  I also think it might be perfect to drop in for for an Empanada, taco or quesadilla as a lunch or fun casual dinner.  All in all, the potential is there… just looking for a little bit better execution.

THE +

•  Vnyl has moved, but the fun remains.  Really fun and playful atmosphere.
• Great place to drink.  We enjoyed the sangria, and the margaritas were good as well
• Small and intimate but lively
• Could be considered cheap if you are used to eating at Eatery, Xing or Whym in the same neighborhood

THE -

• Cheap, Mexican street food, this is not, so if you are looking for standard  Mexican, you might want to go somewhere else
• Small, cramped and noisy.  No reservations so you may have to wait on busy nights
• Could be considered expensive for the portion size or if you are used to eating at cheap Mexican places.  Looking back on it, when you consider the neighborhood, and what type of restaurant it is, it's really not expensive at all, but for some reason it felt that way at the time.

El Centro, 824 9th Ave, 646-763-6585

Helpful Links:

• Lukewarm Review [NYCNOSH]
• Mixed Reviews & Menu [Menupages]

Tom Collichio… you have answered my prayers.  Thank you for bringing Craftsteak to New York.  I love Craftsteak.  I ate at the one in Vegas.  I liked it so much, I ate there a second time… something I wouldn't normally do in a town with so many buffets (so many buffets, so little time).  Eating there is the reason Craft was at the top of my list of places to eat when I moved to New York.  See, before eating at Craftsteak, I had never heard of Craft, or Grammercy Tavern, or Top Chef, or the name Tom Collichio.  Oh, but how one grass fed Ribeye and one corn fed New York strip steak can change all that (the beet salad and mushrooms don't hurt either).

Which brings me to the first point about this place.  If you don't like Craft, you're probably not going to like Craftsteak.  It's pretty much the same restaurant, with alot more meat (hence the name).  Same concept, same sides… same deal.  If you went to Craft and thought "I didn't like ordering everything ala carte" or "This is too expensive", save yourself the trip and skip this restaurant.  If you love Craft, and you love steak, then I'm guessing you'll like this place.

Now if you've been to the Craftsteak in Vegas, there are a few differences between the two places.  First, the menu is much larger.  In Vegas you have a choice of about 8 different steaks cooked two different ways (fed corn or grass).  Well New York is no Vegas my friend, and Tom C. proved it with a whopping 14-17 different steaks, from 3 different providers, including an assortment of house dry aged New York strip steaks which you choose the length of time they were aged.  It's pretty mind boggling.

What we ate and the +/- after the jump…Like I said before I have been to Craftsteak in Vegas twice, and Craft once so I've had my share of the Craft side dishes.  And by my share, I mean all of them.  All of your Craft favorites are here… Hen of the Woods, Jerusalem Artichokes, Potatoes- every delicious way imaginable, roasted beets, I could go on and on.  The one stand out on the menu was easily the Fried Zucchini Blossoms.  I knew from the minute I saw the picture on Augieland I had to have them.  Unfortunately, everyone else had the same idea, and they were out the night we went.  A huge disappointment… but it's the restaurant's first week open- so it was forgiveable.  Now, just like with Craft you want to go with as many people as possible so you order more side dishes.  But on this night, it was only me and the wife and we decided we didn't want to stuff ourselves so we settled on the Fried Artichokes, which were delicious.  Not breaded, but still crispy- they were really oustanding. The rest of the sides we had already tried in our previous visits to Craft NYC, and Craftsteak Vegas so we saved out appetites for the steaks! 

We knew we wanted to try one of the in house dry aged Hereford New York Strip steaks, so we went for the 28 day, which not coincidentally was the cheapest (a relative term at $42).  The taste was delicious, but the steak was actually a little tough… and here's where the meal took a disappointing turn.  The meat appeared to be cooked perfectly, so it got us wondering.  Why was this steak so tough?  Should we have spent the extra $6 for the 35 day steak?  I've never had dry aged steak before.  Is this the texture steak that's been dry aged?  Maybe it's just a hiccup on the restaurant's first week being opened?  If anybody knows the answer to this question… please feel free to comment.  I came close to asking one of the waiters, but ended up wussing out.

 We moved on to the Grass Fed Hawaiian Angus Beef Ribeye ($39) which was definetely better.  Really tender, and a delicious taste (you may say the secret ingredient is butter). But despite the good Ribeye, it didn't blow us away, and it was nearly as good as any of the steaks I had had in Vegas.  It was really puzzling, and ended up making for a disappointing meal.

That being said, I am certainly not writing this place off.  We ordered one side dish and two steaks that might not have been the best on the menu… and on top of that- we were there on the first week the place was open.  I'm not trying to make excuses, but there's no question Craftsteak will survive and thrive in NYC.

THE +

• If you like Craft, and you like Steak…. um… you'll probably like Craftsteak
• Definetely better if you are with a large party so you can order more side dishes and compare the different steaks with each other

THE -

• You don't like Craft… i.e. you don't like ordering your side dishes seperately
• You don't like Craft… i.e. you think it's way to expensive
• Going with two people puts you at a disadvantage because you can't try as many things
• You are looking for a standard "Steakhouse"
• You are expecting the best "steak" you've ever had.

HELPFUL LINKS

• Great Review 1st Week [Augieland]
• Tons of pics and a list of steaks in order of prefernce [Augieland]
• Menu [Craftsteak Website]
   

Nook is definetely an appropriate name for this tiny Hell's Kitchen restaurant. You could easily miss it walking down Ninth Avenue… and it's that kind of carelessness that has you missing out on some of the hidden treasures of the city!  Loser.  This one might not necessarily be worth the trip out of your way, but if you live in Hell's Kitchen, or are going to be in the area- it's definetely worth a visit. Features Chef Rachelle Rodwell formerly of Bouley.

What we ate, and the +/- after the jump…

The most interesting of all the appetizers and salads, it was the one no-brainer of the menu. Pan seared portabello mushrooms, mixed with goat cheese and sage, wrapped in philo dough, and drizzled with white truffle oil. It tasted exactly the way it sounded. Nice appetizer if you like the ingredients.

I love rack of lamb. It's hard for me not to order it… especially at a place where it's under $20. It did not disappoint. Well cooked, and really well spiced with a semi sweet thai marinade. Not a huge fan of mashed potatoes, but if you are, I'm sure you'll enjoy the chive ones that came with the lamb.  I didn't discover the braised cabbage underneath it all until I was sufficiently full but it didn't really matter… the lamb was the star.

Real nice Black Angus Shell steak (much better then the Market Cafe, 10 blocks farther south) with a balsamic reduction sauce. Rosemary fries. Not re-writing the book here… just an all around good dish (but the rack of lamb was definetely better).

A little heavy on the grilled meat for this meal… Time Out NY recommends the Hearty beef goulash (a family recipe of the Polish owner), and most reviews I've read said you can't go wrong ordering anything on the menu.

Also, if you can get in on the weekend, their brunch comes highly recommended (and really cheap for the area).

SERVICE & ATMOSPHERE NOTE: The restaurant is very small and cramped, and there is only one waiter for the entire thing. I've read a lot of complaints about the service and the amount of time it takes to get your food- and it was no different the night we were there. Definetely a better experience for two, reservations are recommended for parties of 3 or more, and if your part is bigger then 4, I would definetely recommend choosing a different place. Also, it is CASH ONLY, and BYOB (there are tons of wine shops within a few blocks of the restaurant).

The +

• You are into BYOB
• Looking for a small, romantic place for two in Hell's Kitchen
• To you, cramped means cozy

The -

• Your party is more then 2 people.  They can do 4, but more then that and you're pushing it
• You Don't like being in a small cramped space
• You are in a rush.  Service is real slow, so if you're thinking pre-theater, you might spend the whole meal worrying you're gonna be late.

Helpful links…

• Official Website [www.nycnook.com]
• Short Review [Time Out NY]
• User Reviews [CitySearch]

746 9th Ave (BTW 50th & 51st), 212-247-5500 [map]

When Nobu 57 opened it seemed from some reviews that the Nobu backlash was on. Adam Platt from New York Magazine called it “formulaic” and I thought maybe the dream was over. Now granted, it was a review of the new restaurant Nobu 57, (not the original Tribeca restaurant which we just ate at). But I couldn’t help but think, that after all these years, maybe people were getting tired of the same old Nobu dishes, and that even worse, because of the new restaurants, the quality at the original might start to suffer. I can still remember the birthday meal I had years ago at Next Door Nobu. Each dish better then the next… At the time I hadn’t been to too many “fancy” restaurants, but even a novice to expensive cuisine, I could tell this place was in anothe league.

It was with this memory, and open to the possibility of being disappointed we returned to Nobu, not sure what to expect. Now, while many people would call Nobu a Sushi Restaurant, it is anything but. If you are looking for sushi, there are tons of amazing restaurants in Manhattan that serve the freshest, most delicious sushi you’ve ever had… but Nobu is not one of those places. The genius is in their appetizers and hot foods. While many people have written this over and over again, you still see people telling their friends or posting reviews on chowhound- “Nobu is overrated”, “the sushi is so much better at _____________”. If you want to enjoy Nobu in the same way that people who rave about it do, you have to stick with the signature dishes.

What we ate, and the +/- after jump….

Expensive. Yes (though for Toro not really). Delicious. Yes. If you feel the need for some raw fish you would do good to order any of the tartare’s or ceviches. They are very popular, along with the New Style Sashimi. Remember, while these dishes are a nice way to begin the meal- the best is yet to come. For those of you who haven’t had Toro it is Fatty Tuna, and comes in 3 different grades. It is a spectacular cut of fish, which is best enjoyed as sashimi served plain. If you have never had it, this might not be the best introduction (although you will still enjoy it)- if you have had it many times, this is a great way of enjoying it in a different way.

This is actually one of my favorite dishes of Nobu’s. I had it for the first time at his Los Angeles scaled down outpost “Matsuhisa” and it is delicious. You won’t see this raved about very often, but I am big fan of the cheeks, a sort of stringy on the inside, slightly crispy on outside version with a great mustard’y tasting sauce. Don’t let the “cheek” part of it scare you… if you like fish, and you like the mustardy side of wasabi’s flavor- you should like this dish.

A must order. You will seldom see a review of a Nobu restaurant without a mention of this classic Nobu stable. It’s as delicious as it sounds. Occasionally I’ve heard of people getting an order that was not expertly prepared… but don’t let it discourage you- it’s usually right on.

I’ve been starting to see this one pop up more and more on people’s favorite dishes list. It’s not actually pasta, but squid that is so expertly cooked that it’s tenderness makes you feel like you might be eating some sort of pasta dish. If you don’t like garlic, the name should be enough to keep you from ordering this dish. If you’re not normally a fan of squid (usually tough and sometime fishy at bad restaurants) this might be the dish that changes your mind.

THE DISH. You cannot go and not order this Nobu Signature Dish. He created it. He made it popular. All others are just imitators. No matter how many times you’ve had it, it’s imposible not to order it again and again. Sweet. Perfectly cooked. Sublime.

I admit it. I like sushi rolls. It doesn’t matter what’s in them. Fried stuff, raw stuff, roasted stuff with sauce all over it. It doesn’t matter… I like the sashimi too- but I love a good roll. We decided to try one at the end of the meal, and it was good.

One final note about our meal. We were seated in the front room just to the right of where you enter the restaurant. We felt isolated, and boxed in from the excitement of the rest of the restaurant. Even the back room by the bathrooms was more alive and vibrant. It definetely effected our meal in a negative way. Our enjoyment of the meal was a testament to how great the food really is. If you are seated in that front room, I would recommend asking if there is another table open.

FINAL WORD:  NOBU has still got it. I wasn’t sure what to expect returning to this restaurant that has been praised for so long, by so many. Just make sure you stick to the signature dishes, and whatever you do, don’t call it a sushi place. Everybody has a different opinion about what place in NYC is the best Japanese or best Sushi. When deciding where to go, you need to figure out what it is you like out of a Japanese Restaurant, and if someone gives you there opinion of “the best” find out exactly what it is they are talking about. If it’s going to a small un-assuming place that has the most amazing fish flown in from Japan two times a week, and the sushi chef hands it to you over the sushi bar- then maybe you want to go to a place like Sushi of Gari or Sushi Seki. If you are looking for interesting hot japanese dishes, in a flashy environment with decent raw fish tossed in for good measure, then Nobu is definetely for you.

THE +

• If the popular signature dishes sound appealing to you, you will like this place.  Stick to what has made it so popular year after year

THE - 

• If you are looking for out of this world sushi, there are much better places.  People don’t rave about Nobu because of the sushi

HELPFUL LINKS

• Official Website
• Adam Platt’s Nobu 57 Review [New York Magazine]
• NOBU vs Sushi Yasuda vs. Nobu 57 vs. Jewel Bako [Chowhound]
• Sushi NYC

5 9th Ave (Btw Gansevoort & Little W 12th St), 212-929-9460   [map]

Date of Meal: February 18, 2006